Dogo Onsen
One of the major attractions of Matsuyama is going to be Dogo Onsen. With a history that spans hundreds of years, Dogo Onsen is going to need renovations every now and then. The main building is less than a 5 minute walk around the corner from the Dogo Onsen station. Dogo Onsen station is the terminal station and can be reached here by either taking the Iyotetsu trams #3 or #5. It is also the starting point for the Bocchan Ressha train that make a mini tour around the city. Inside the station is also a Starbucks. Yes, I love Starbucks in Japan and I will discuss in future posts about my obsession with them.
If you are going to renovate, have an art festival!
Dogo Onsen Honkan (the main building) is a short walk from the Dogo Onsen station. The station is a small tram station and not a full scale station similar to bigger cities.
Dogo Onsen Honkan was undergoing renovations when I went there in Dec 2022. Most of the floors other than the main bathing areas for both women and men are not open unfortunately. The renovations started in 2019 and information about their current status can be found on their website.
The thing that I admire with Japanese renovation projects is that they utilize not only scaffolding but also netting. In this case, even though the renovation project is a multi year project, the netting was decorated with egrets which is a part of the history of Dogo Onsen.
PSA : Ettiquettes for Sentos and Onsen
If you have never been to a Japanse sento or onsen before, here are a few easy ettiquettes to remember.
Japanese baths are actually for relaxation and not washing.
Since the facility is used by many, it is customary to wash before entering the onsen waters. There are many washing stations as you exit the locker room and into the bathing area. ‘Tsubaki no Yu’ does not provide liquid soap or shampoo at the washing stations so don’t forget to bring them yourself or buy single use portions from the entrance. Rental towels are available for a nominal fee but I borrowed mine from my hotel room and brought it back aftewards. In both Honkan and Asuka no Yu, liquid soap and shampoo dispensers are present at the washing stations so you do not need to buy or bring your own.
Bathing suits and towels are not allowed in the onsen water. If in doubt, ask. In most situations, it means that, everybody is their birthday suits in the bathing area. Towels should be kept off to the side of the onsen and used to dry most of the water off before heading out to the locker room.
Do I need to mention that photography and filming is not allowed while inside the locker room and bathing area?
If you leave to use the washroom, don’t forget to rewash yourself before entering the onsen
Regardless of your views of Japan and tattoos, Dogo Onsen is welcoming of those with tattoos.
This ends the public service announcement.
Dogo Onsen Honkan
I made several trips to the area as it was relatively close to my hotel and I had a Iyotetsu 4 day tram pass. I wanted to take photos of every conceivable lighting condition and angle of the building.
The main building is at the corner of a road that winds up around a small hill. The building is 80% covered in scaffolding and netting so that the only real angle is directly in front. When I scouted the front by walking around, there are a few options:
Not far away and looking down from above is a foot bath where you can take a photo at an angle that covers the entire area from above.
Across the street, there is a small structure, barriers and light poles which can get in the way of a full wide angle photo.
Slightly to the right also works, but I found that highlighting the ornaments with a zoom lens more interesting than covering the structure.
There is also highlighting the netting as a unique photo opportunity since it will eventually disappear.
There is also the issue with light. Early morning sunlight does not quite cover the building correctly, and when it does, part of the building is going back into the shadows. At least, that is the way the sun was traveling in December. I wonder if there is a better time in the year where the building is covered by a gentle morning sunrise glow? Sunlight from above is harsh and flattens out everything and the detail is lost underneath the rooftop lips. In the evening, it is quite gentle but a tripod is needed to reduce camera shakes.
Dogo Onsen ‘Asuka no Yu’ and ‘Tsubaki no Yu’
Less than a two minute from the Main building to the ‘Asuka no Yu’ and ‘Tsubaki no Yu’
To the right of the main building and only a few minutes walk through the street arcade is the Annex ‘Asuka no Yu’. and ‘Tsubaki no Yu’.
‘Tsubaki no Yu’ is the building before and is similar to a sento ‘ bathing house’. It does not provide amenities inside the bathing area, so don’t forget to bring your own soaps and shampoos to wash yourself before getting into the onsen. If required, they also provide for a nominal fee items if you forget.
‘Asuka no Yu’ is next door and shown in the photos below. There are a few different packages but the basic fee to use the onsen is 610 yen for adults. Don’t forget to bring some 100 yen coins for the refundable coin lockers to store bags near the entrance and clothes in the locker room. The lockers by the entrance can fit hand bags and normal sized backpacks. I recommend leaving any suitcases, luggages or oversized travel backpacks with your accomodation’s cloak room if you can.
I always make it a point of going back to the same place as the daytime and nighttime atmosphere is completely different.
As beautiful as ‘Asuka no Yu’ was in the daytime, it is a completely different place when you see it in the evening. The building’s exterior is beautifully illuminated, especially, around the wooden bench off to the side of the building.
I made a point to go to ‘Asuka no Yu’ and ‘Tsubaki no Yu’ early in the morning (ie. when it first opens) so it would be less busy. I borrowed my towel from the hotel room and carried it a plastic bag with me. After I was done, it was a quick ride back to my hotel room to drop it off to dry and head back out unencumbered. Since I had a 4 day tram pass, I did not have to thinking too much about it, plus it was only 830 am by the time I was out the door again.
